CEO and Chairman of Abercrombie & Fitch, Mike Jeffries, stated that
RUEHL took years of planning, mainly for the store's atmosphere and
image. From the start, the Company (A&F) was determined to keep the
fourth concept veiled from public eyes. Retail analysts viewed this as
peculiar. Not even retail landlords approached for space were told
about the concept. John C. Shroder (COO of Westfield San Francisco
Centre's U.S. operations) confessed that it was A&F's reputation
which gave him the confidence to "sign up RUEHL sight-unseen."
Despite
the secretive nature, rumors circulated about a "distinct departure"
from the A&F style. It was evident that A&F sought to maintain
consumers past ages 18 through 22. The concept was to venture out as
more mature and sophisticated, all the while keeping it youthful.
Encouraging studies revealed that 35-to-40-year-olds shop to look 25.
The brand was privately unveiled to investors-only on "Investor Day"
September 7, 2004. The presentation was at Garden State Plaza in New
Jersey.[11] At the introduction and press tour of the Westfield Garden
State Plaza location, Jeffries noted that RUEHL is "the fantasy of what
it's like to graduate from college and go to New York and make it. It's
the New York fantasy." He also repeatedly referred to RUEHL as "the
movie" because of its elaborate, flowing background.
RUEHL
No.925 finally opened on September 24, 2004 with three locations. These
were at Garden State Plaza (New Jersey), Woodfield Mall (Illinois), and
the International Plaza (Florida). Designed to look and feel like
Greenwich Village, RUEHL really presented a new, "more sophisticated"
lifestyle than other Abercrombie & Fitch brands. The store
prototype of this time was a two-floor prototype measuring at 9,500 sq
ft (880 m2). Due to its structural form and size, locations capable of
housing the prototype became hard to acquire.
Mike Jeffries did not launch an online store upon the opening of RUEHL.
He wanted to attract customers to the stores to experience the RUEHL
atmosphere. What was launched was a promotional website which gave
store listings, previewed the private online policy, and allowed for
email subscription to receive news on RUEHL.
Original prices
upon opening were roughly 30% higher than at Abercrombie & Fitch
(e.g. destroyed blue jeans $148.00 USD[6]). Many consumers deemed this
as too high for young professionals who normally begin their careers at
fair incomes.
In June 2005, writer Alex Kuczynski published an
article in The New York Times about her experience in the store at
Garden State Plaza. She described the facade as "something provocative
and different," and compared the store greeter to a "nightclub bouncer
on the watch for good-looking customers." Kuczynski wrote that the
store name conjures up actress Mercedes Ruehl and her hapless roles;
"try as it might, the name just doesn't sound cool." She also
criticized the lighting techniques, saying that the dimness may
encourage shoplifting and that "people at that age [20's and 30's]
aspiring to the heights of sangfroid that Ruehl appears to promote
would never deign to exert effort to find the right size, let alone
spend 10 minutes squinting at a skirt to discern its color", a shame
because "the clothing is worth the time and the money." She said prices
were "reasonable", giving as an example $158 for the best-selling
"destroyed" blue jeans.
The advertisement for the launch of
the online store.In early 2007, RUEHL925.com became RUEHL.com and was
upgraded as an Adobe Flash Player page. Also, to accommodate expansion,
a new store prototype was developed measuring at 7,200 sq ft (670 m2).
This new prototype encompasses one sales level only, reducing
construction costs and increasing opportunities to secure prime
locations.[12] A limited online store was finally launched on October
25, 2007. It sold fragrances and handbags in a limited quantity of
styles. By the end of the year, in an effort to retain consumer basis,
price points for RUEHL clothing were significantly lowered as so to
create a minimal 10-15% difference between Abercrombie & Fitch and
RUEHL No.925 clothing. A&F rose its jeans prices to make a $10 USD
difference between its jeans and RUEHL's. January 30, 2008 marked the
launch of the full online store.
RUEHL marketing photography
has a blue color scheme and is more sophisticated than Abercrombie
& Fitch. Noticeably, some imagery uses angles of Greenwich Village
as a backdrop. Jeffries has made it clear that sex in marketing is a
continual importance in RUEHL advertising.[7] For that reason, Bruce
Weber shoots all campaigns. He is most noted for his provocative and
sexual, beefcake work with Calvin Klein underwear and Abercrombie sale.
Photography from RUEHL's early days evolved from sepia and dark green
color schemes before settling on blue. High-profile models have
appeared in RUEHL marketing campaigns, including Miranda Kerr and Kim
Stolz.
The brand has used the appropriate slogan, "Visit us
in the Village." Its main marketing logo "RUEHL / No.925 / Greenwich
Street / New York" has been revised and replaced with "RUEHL / No.925 /
Greenwich St / New York, NY". It mimics as an actual address. And
unlike other A&F brands which rely on and owe their success to
walking self-marketing in schools, RUEHL must follow more rigid
advertisement techniques to make itself more known to the public.
Marketing
techniques used on RUEHL have not benefited revenue expectations for
the brand. The average RNY store generated sales of over $3.2 million
USD in 2006. In comparison to Hollister's outstanding popularity and
sales by 2004 (four years after its opening), revenue from RUEHL by
2008 has not been satisfying. Giving R925 more of a resemblance to the
A&F style (noticeable on Hollister), but maintaining flare, is a
marketing move being practiced to increase figures (by attracting
same-company customers).
Potted palm trees (found in A&F/HCO
stores) have been added instore. The "RUEHL No.925" name is stamped and
embroidered more noticeably. Recently reduced price points will also
make it easier for same-company customers to enter the RUEHL market,
and the new store prototype will gain faster expansion than before.
Even production rollouts have been made similar to its sister brands.
A&F hopes that RUEHL will eventually grow as a strong, popular,
post-grad brand: similar to A&F with collegiates and Hollister with
high-schoolers. Customers seeking a more dark and mature look will find
RUEHL their choice out of all Abercrombie and Fitch's brands.
